The pull of the surf is even stronger now. It's getting complicated trying to reconcile my surf desires with the realization that I am landlocked and not moving anytime soon. Hopefully a few powder days chill me out. But I am completely consumed with surfing at the moment, it's all I think about lately. Felt some speed on my surfboard for the first time and wow that feeling is probably better than heroin. Maybe time to buy a thicker wetsuit for winter missions?
Highlights of the trip include taking a peep at Adam's passport. That dude doesn't have any space left in that thing for a passport stamp, seriously. He has been all over the world including off the beaten spots like Tarawa? Who goes to Tarawa? He does, that's who. I have only been to 4 countries outside of the US, time to step up my travel game! Gotta find a way to save more time and money to take family outings outside of the US. Also an Aussie in the water was surfing his way down Mexico all the way to Peru for the next few months. He is going to hit all the surf spots on the way. Talk about living life to the fullest! Seriously every time I go on these trips with my friends the more I want to just drop out and explore the world and life. Gotta find that balance. Many people look at surfers like burnouts, but really if you think about things they are pretty darn resourceful and inspiring. If you can talk your way out of the back of a third world police car or get to some of these off the beaten path surf locations, you could run a fortune 500 company, but it is much less satisfying.
Gotta give Aaron props too, that dude is motivated. He would surf sunup to sunset if you didn't drag him out of the water. "Why go in when there are waves?", very true Aaron, but my arms stopped working 4 hours into the session, that's why! Paddling out with overhead surf at La Fonda beachbreak is easily a feat in itself for me at the moment!