Wednesday, July 28, 2010
This past surf trip ruined me. I got the surf bug real bad and I am having a hard time shaking it at the moment. I finally had that surfing breakthrough I have been craving and I had no idea of the passion it would ignite underneath me. Surfing has always been fun to me, but something changed on this past trip. I really wonder if I had this same experience when I was 18 yrs old if I would have ever ended up in the mountains. Don't get me wrong, my life is great, I snowboard more than people can imagine and I live close to some of the best snowboarding the world has to offer, but for the first time in a long time I have had thoughts of giving it all up for something new. I know this can't be my reality but I am daydreaming constantly about a new surf lifestyle. My life needs more surfing. Instead of more snowboarding trips I think I should make them surf trips instead. Looking back my biggest regret in life is signing that mountain bike racing contract with Fat Chance instead of moving to San Diego and surfing all summer with my friends back in 95.
Posted by Forrest