Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Ruined

This past surf trip ruined me. I got the surf bug real bad and I am having a hard time shaking it at the moment. I finally had that surfing breakthrough I have been craving and I had no idea of the passion it would ignite underneath me. Surfing has always been fun to me, but something changed on this past trip. I really wonder if I had this same experience when I was 18 yrs old if I would have ever ended up in the mountains. Don't get me wrong, my life is great, I snowboard more than people can imagine and I live close to some of the best snowboarding the world has to offer, but for the first time in a long time I have had thoughts of giving it all up for something new. I know this can't be my reality but I am daydreaming constantly about a new surf lifestyle. My life needs more surfing. Instead of more snowboarding trips I think I should make them surf trips instead. Looking back my biggest regret in life is signing that mountain bike racing contract with Fat Chance instead of moving to San Diego and surfing all summer with my friends back in 95.

4 comments:

snowone said...

1,2, Sucker punch...

This is a primary factor in why I have never returned to the Wasatch full time.

2.5hr drives for surf are a no brainer--and the tractor beam is pulling strong to living even closer.

shoulda, coulda, woulda... naugh man... no regrets... the stoke is high in your images and in pow turn tales of glory from UT w/ your FAM and Friends.

El Hefe said...

This is how it all begins, Mr Yo Eddy. If you don't get this little habit of yours under control, you're screwed. Nothing takes hold like a good surf addiction. Not even snowshredding. Personally, I'm a lost cause. Snowone has seen me at my worst...in Mexico, sunburnt, dehydrated, huddled around a campfire in 95 degree heat with some Mexi-Marlboros. Get out while you still can.

_POUCH said...

I feel your pain man. You know my story; my life was surfing for a looong time before I ever set foot in UT, and it took me a long time to get the salt water out of my blood. Over the years I've had a couple battles with returning to the ocean lifestyle, but I have no regrets. "Love the one you're with" homey...

PS- Next time you go on a surf trip invite me!!! hahaha

AB said...

It'll change your life brah.....